Lasting and sewing machine.



mu. PRENZEL. LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT- '5. I914.

4 SHEET$-SHEET l.

1,202,098. Patented Oct. 24,1916.

A, H. PRENZEL.

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

v APPLICATION FILED SEPT. l5, l9l4. 1,202,098.

Patented Oct. 24,1916.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2 WI TNESSES:

A. H. PRENZEL.

4 7fl\i INVEN TOR WITNESSES:

A. H. PRENZEL. LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION HLED SEPT. l5. I914.

Patented Oct. 24, 1916.

4 SHEETSSHEET 4 w itmmozo %;M c, d %M 9 g z i i sra rn's ra'r uric.

ADAM H. PRENZEL, OF HALIFAX, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF IPATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

LASTING AND snwme MACHINE.

Patented 0a. 24, 1916.

Application filed September 15, 1914. Serial No. 861,877.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ADAM H. PRENZEL, a

citizen of the United States, residing at Halifax, in the county of Dauphin and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improvements in Lasting and Sewing Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to lasting and sewingmachines and particularly to a lasting and sewing machine designed to last and to secure in lasted position the lining of a shoe.

In making shoes according to the process of my copending application on which United States Letters Patent No. 1,181,415 were granted March 9, 191 5, the insole of the shoe is provided with a flexible strip which may be either integral with the shoe or in the form of a welt attached to the insole, preferably to the bottom face of the insole, and to this flexible strip or welt the lining of the upper is secured, preferably by stitches, the lining being drawn over the side of the last into a smooth condition before the securing operation. This lining lasting operation preferably precedes the upper lasting operation, although there is no objection, so far as the process of making shoes described in said co-pending application is concerned, to securing the upper also to the welt strip upon the insole.

An object of this invention is to provide a machine which will facilitate this lining lasting operation and which will at the same time secure the lining in lasted position.

To this end the invention contemplates the equipment of a sewing machine with shoe supporting means, so arranged with respect to the path of the needle that the welt strip upon the insole and the lower margin of the upper lining may be presented to the sewing mechanism in such manner that the needle will pass through these parts substantially in contact with the bottom edge of the insole. The machine is preferably arranged to feed the work and the supporting means is preferably so related to the feeding-means that in the feeding and clamping of the work the lining is drawn tight over the side of the last and is held in this position during the operation of sewing the lining to the insole welt.

An important feature of the invention is Other important features and objects of s the inventlon Wlll appear from the following description and claims when considered in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a lasting and sewing machine embodying the present invention, the bed casting and standard being broken away to disclose parts of the operating mechanism otherwise hidden from view; Fig. 2 is a front view upon a larger scale of those parts of the machine with which the invention is more particularly concerned; Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 2 sectioned upon the line m:c of Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is an enlarged view of a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. 2 with certain portions removed to show the relative positions of the parts when the stitch is being looped; Fig. 5 is a fragmentary view, partly in section, on the line modified presser foot construction; and Fig.

9 is a section of Fig. 8 on the line z2 looking in the direction of the arrows.

In the drawings, which show a sewing machine of the straight-needle, dry thread type, the mechanism which constitutes the subject matter of the present invention is illustrated in detail and only a general showing of those parts which are well known in the sewing machine art is made for the sake of indicating the relationship of the parts constituting the present invention to the parts which are old.

Although the invention is shown as incorporated in an old and well-known sewing machine of a particular type, it will be. understood that the invention is not restricted to use in this particular type of sewing machine and that not only the invention as a whole but many of its novel features are applicable to sewing machines of other types.

The machine in which the invention is shown as incorporated comprises a bed casting 2 on which is mounted the usual standard 4 and stitching post 6, the standard 4:

carrving'the usual horizontal arm 8. The

usual thread holding and tensioning devices are shown upon the arm 8 and need no chine and operates the needle bar 14 and presser foot 16 in the usual andw'ell known manner. From the horizontal shaft in the arm 8 motion is transmitted to a horizontal shaft 18 by driving rods 20, the shaft 18 being mounted in bearings upon the under side of the bed casting 2. lvl'ounted in the stitching post 6 is a feed bar provided u on its upper end with teeth 24 which engage the lower side of the work resting upon the upper end of the stitching post and act to feed the work as the feed bar oscillates between the successive stitch forming operations. The movement of the feed bar is a combined vertical and lateral movement and is effected through -connections to cams 26 and 28 upon the shaft 18. The cam 26 operates through an arm 30 upon a rock-shaft 32 and through a transverse connecting rod and rocker arm. not shown. to oscillate a second rock-shaft 34 which is provided with an arm 36 connected to the slide member 38 pi otallv connected at its lower end to the feed bar 22. Thus through the cam 26 and its connections to the feed bar 22 the lateral mo ement of the feed bar is effected. The c m 28 acts upon an arm 40 upon a rockshaft 42 provided at its front end with a second arm 44 having a block-and-slot connection 46 with the slide member 38. The cam 28 thus acts through its connections with the slide member 38 to effect the verti-.

cal movement of the feed bar 22.

To provide for the lasting of the lining or upper of a shoe to the insole of the shoe and securing the parts in proper lasted position. a support for the shoe to be lasted has been provided which insures the presentation of the shoe to the machine in such manner that the needle will pass through the parts to be united in a path which substantially touches the bottom edge of the insole.

Fig. 5 of the drawin s shows the manner of using the illustrated machine to last a she made accord ng to the process of the above-mentioned United States Letters Patent No. 1.131.415. the illustrated novel shoe formin the subie t-m tter of In co nding application Ser. No. 861,820, filed of even date herewith. In this figure it will be noted that the presser foot 16 is provided with a needle uide48 and with a work engaging face 50 which cooperates with the u per face 52 of a bridgemember 54 constituting a part of the work supporting portion of the post 6, and that said presser foot has a second work engaging and work supporting face 56 inclined to said face 50 and intersecting the needle guide 48. It will be seen also that the stitching post is provided witha support 58 for the work upon the side of the feed bar 22 opposite to that upon which the bridge member 54 is located, said support 58 acting also as a needle shield and being recessed upon its inner face to provide for the travel of the needle and being tapered to a thin edge at its upper end to provide for the location of the shoe to be lasted in such relation to the path of the needle that said path shall substantially contact with the bottom edge of the insole. From this figure it will be noted that the bottom face of the insole 59 bears against the face 56 ofthe presser foot; that the lining at the edge of the insole bears against the upper edge of the needle shield 58 and that the portion of the lining beyond the edge of the insole and-the welt strip 60, or the flexible piece upon the insole to which the lining is to be attached, are clamped between the lower face 50 of the presser foot and the work supporting face 52 of the bridge member 54:. It will be noted further that as the presser foot travels over the work it serves to maintain the welt strip 60 in position to be united to the lower ed e of the lining or to the lower edge of the lining and upper. and that in cooperation with the needle shield 58 it tends to force the lining and upper into proper lasted position before the sewing operation. This drawing together of these parts to be united is found to be suffic ent along the straight sides of the last and along those parts which are not abruptly curved. In lasting the lining to the insole about the toe part of the last,

however, it is found advanta eous to provide means fortucking or 'plaiting these parts to shape them to the sharplv curved parts of the last. To this end the invention contemplates the provision of a tucker which may be rendered operative at the will of the operator and which will serve to effect a tucking of the parts to be united in ad ance ofthe uniting operation.

The preferred form of tucking mechanism is shown in Figs. 1 to 5 inclusive and comprises a curved arm or finger 62 adiustablv mounted upon the upper end of a lever 64: fulcrumed at 66 upon an adjustable bracket 68 upon the front of the post 6, said arm being provided at its upper end with teeth 70 and having this end tapered to a sharp edge and located closely adjacent to the needle shield 58 and upon that side of the path of the needle from which the work to be operated upon comes, whereby said tucker may operate to engage the lining or upper and effect a tucking operation in ad-' va'nce of each stitch forming operation.

; The operation of the tucking finger is preferably so timed that the tuck is formed before the needle enters the work and that the tucking finger will make its return move ment while the needle is in the work. The illustrated means for operating the tucking finger comprises a second lever 72 fulcrumed at 74 upon a downwardly extending arm of the bracket 68, said lever 72 and the lever 64 overlapping and being slotted at 76 in the overlapping portions and being connected by an adjustable stud 78 extending through the slotted portions of said levers, said stud 78 being threaded and shouldered and having a hand nut 79 by which it may be secured in dilferentpositions of-adjustment along said slots to vary the throw of the lever 64 imparted to it by the lever 72, said latter lever having a constant throw from an eccentric 80 to which it is connected by an eccentric strap 82. Thus the extent of the tucking action of the tucking finger 62 may be varied. To provide for actuating the tucking finger 62 at the will of the operator the eccentric 80 is loosely mounted upon a horizontal shaft 84 driven by gears 86, 88 from the shaft 18 and is arranged to be clutched to said shaft 84 through a clutch member 90 splined to the shaft 84 and carrying a pin 92 adapted to enter a socket 94 in the eccentric 80 as said clutch member 90 is moved along said shaft 84. The movement of the clutch member 90 along the shaft 84 to effect the clutching of the eccentric 80 to said shaft may be effected through a knee operated lever 96 from which extends a fork 98 swiveled in said lever 96 and received in a groove 100 in the clutch member 90. A spring 102 tends to move the clutch member 90 normally out of engagement with the eccentric 80.

In Figs. 6 and 7 of the drawings is shown a modification of the construction of the tucking finger and of the mechanism by which this finger is operated. In this modified construction the tucking finger 620 is shown as mounted upon a straight lever 640 fulcrumed at 660 directly upon the front of the stitching post 6. The lever 640 extends directly through the base 2 of the machine and at its lower end is provided with a fork 641 which directly embraces the eccentric 80 upon the shaft 84. It will be seen that by this modified construction the adjustability of the operating mechanism is not so great as in the preferred construction, although the mechanism for operating the tucking finger is more simple than that employed in operating the finger of the preferred construction.

In Figs. 8 and 9 is shown a modification of the construction of the presser foot, by which the inclination of the sole supporting face of the pressure foot may be adjusted to adapt it to different kinds of work. In this secured in its different positions of adjustments. The needle guide 48 and the work engaging 'face 50 of the pressure foot are substantially the the same as in the preferred construction, but that portion 564 of the inclined sole supporting face which in: tersects the needle guide is curved upon an arc concentric with the pivot 561, whereby it forms a continuation of the sole supporting face of the member 560 in all positions of adjustment of said member.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. A machine of the class described comprising, in combination, sewing mechanism, a presser foot having an inclined work supporting face which intersects the path of the needle and over which the work is fed, a work support cooperating with said presser foot, and. a work feeding member carried by said work support.

2. A machine of the class described comprising, in combination, a work support, a presser foot cooperating with said work sup port, and sewing mechanism including a needle passing through said work support and said presser foot, said presser foot having a work supporting face inclined to the supporting surface of said work support extending along the path of movement of the work and intersecting the path of movement of said needle.

. 3. In a machine of the class described asupport for the bottom face of the sole of a shoe to be lasted, a support for the edge face of said sole and sewlng means cooperating with said supports, said means comprising a needle arranged to operate in a path which is inclined to the bottom face of the sole supported by said supports and which is contiguous to the edge where said bottom and side faces intersect.

4. A machine for lasting the lining of a shoe and securing it in lasted position to a flexible strip or welt upon the insole, comprising, in combination, means for clamping together the projecting lining margin and the insole welt, insole engaging means for supporting the insole at an inclination to the clamped welt and lining, and sewing means comprising a needle arranged to travel in a path contiguous to the bottom edge of said insole.

5. In a machine of the class described, insole engaging means for supporting the bottom face of the insole of a shoe to be lasted, means for supporting the edge face of saidinsole, sewing means comprising a needle arranged to travel in a path inclined to said bottom face and contiguous to the edgewhere said bottom and side faces intersect and work feeding ine'ans operating up'on the side ofcsaid needle opposite to that upon which the sole support is located.

. 6. A machine for lasting the lining of a shoe and securing it to a flexible strip on the insole, comprising,- in combination, means for clamping together the parts to be united,

means for inserting fastenings to unite saidparts, means for feeding the work between the successive inserting operations, and means operating along the line of feed for gathering the liningabout the curved parts of the shoe in advance of the fastening inserting operation.

7 In a machine for lasting the lining of a shoe and securing it to a flexible strip on the insole, leans for supporting the bottom face'of the insole, means for supporting the edge face of said insole, means operating along a path inclined to said bottom face and contiguous to the edge formed by the intersection of said two faces for inserting fastenings to fasten together the lining and the flexible strip, and means operating along the edge face of the insole for gathering the lining in advance of the fastening inserting operations.

8. A machine for lasting the lining of a shoe and securing it'to a flexible strip on the insole, comprising, in combination, sewing mechanism, means for clamping together the flexible strip and the margin of the lining which projects beyond the bottom edge of the insole insuch position that the sewing mechanism can unite these parts sub stantially at said bottom edge, and means arranged to be operated at the will of the operator for tucking the lining in advance of the sewing operations thereon.

9. A machine for lasting the lining of a shoeand securing it to'a flexible strip on the insole, comprising, in combination, means for supporting the bottom face of the insole, means for supporting the edge face of said insole, sewing means comprising a needle operating along a path inclined to said bottom face and contiguous'to the edge formed by the intersection of said two faces, means upon the side of the path of said needle remote from said supports for clamping together the flexible strip and the projecting lining margin, and means arranged to be actuated at the will of the operator and operating upon the support side of said needle for tucking the lining in advance of the sewing operations.

10. A machine for lasting the lining of a shoe and securing it to a flexible strip on the insole, comprising, in combination, sewing mechanism comprising a needle, a sole support upon one side of the path of said needle, means upon the other side of the path of said needle for clamping together the flexible strip and the projecting lining margin, lining tucking means upon the support side of said needle, and Work feeding means upon the clamp side of said needle.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

L. W. RYAN, G. W. SHULTZ.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents.

Washington, D. G. 

